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Visit the Store. High-temperature carburizing and hard-forming thermoformed steel, good wear resistance, and heat resistance. One-time forming technology, make sure the interior of nozzle is smooth without читать больше. Cutting with the diamond knife, make the contact surface more flat, so it can prevent print head from leakage effectively and avoid nozzles clogging. Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

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Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. I received a creality 4. When I use the Ender 3 Pro 1. And it is impossible to make a home, I have the error ” Homing failed ” I tried several times to build new firmware, but still not working The text was updated successfully, but these errors were encountered:.

I also received the 4. The firmware which was on the device when it got delivered had the same “homing failed” error. I did hear a sound when it started but no moving stepper motors. I installed the same firmware as mentioned by badouuuuuu above and got it to work showed 0. Go to for the issue : Try this config. Hi, i got also the new board for my Ender 3 Pro an get the same error. Can you please describe how to bring the firmware and the config on my printer?

Is there a tutorial for this? Built with Marlin-bugfix Deimos85 Put this files in the the root of your sdcard, and boot on your printer. Can you connect pronterface? Ie try and move each axis 10 positive then 10 mm -ve Do they move at all, do they move in correct direction.??

With pronterface, nothing happens when i moved each one check video below. With the working firmware if you do a M43 does it provide an output I would be very surprised if it did as that would make things easy! I am curious to learn or want to help, if you know any technical tips to fix board issues. Someone need to make a new pin mapping. So check other basic functionality Does the board show room-ish temperature on lcd?

Just is be careful doing this, if you turn on a hot end, you may not notice till you burn yourself. I’m having the same issue. Ender 3 pro with 4. I tried inverting them but still no motor movement. It’d be nice if Creality actually followed the GPL and released their bit firmware instead of posting pre-compiled bins on their website. I’m surprised they are still doing this despite all the backlash they received when they pulled this a while ago. If you found it somewhere please provide a direct link.

If someone with this board could make a high res scan of both sides of this board as high res as you can do that might be useful. Flat bed scanners are often good for this. A bit blurry, but it didn’t seem to work with the flat scanner. Just found this thread. I thought it might be just the stepper enable pin since it is shared on all axis but images and comparing disassembly from current marlin and the bin that works I have sent a email to cs creality. Just been disassembling the code around X-Step and X-Dir pins.

They seem to be swapped from the 4. Y step and dir also seem swapped. What they sent indicates that the stepper drivers are TMC This is in contrast to the TMC stepper drivers listed in their latest firmware on creality.

Where is this “old pin” you used. Diagram please. What pin did you use on the board? I use the old PIN in where the previous bltouch is connected. It worked for me. Tried all possible fixes that i’ve found across the internet, but still no luck. Selftest – ok, red light – ok, but when autohoming by z axis – just goes down with the sensor being retracted In platformio. Where is the firmware I’ve compiled?

Flawioo I wanted to thank you for your documentation, although I am still having an issue after following the instructions. I have tried both lines, although I initially used your other documentation for the second line that I believe had a value of I haven’t gone back and tried the other version, although it isn’t clear which line I need to use.

Right now I am trying the first line, as I am using the 5 pin connection on the board. My current issue is that when autohoming the printer won’t lower on the Z axis. In fact, now I can’t even get the Z axis to go down, only up. Flawioo thank you very much for your efforts and your documention.

The last little issue is the loose connection between the 3-pole BL-touch connector and the 5-pin connector on the board, obviously both connectors don’t fit very well together.

What is name of this type of connector housing I need to buy to make it fit better? Hi Hotel-Delta I think the name is “jst connector female 5 pin” Until the delivery of the new connector, try to use hot glue, maybe can help too. Hi mweirath , to achieve your goal:. The previous “how to” was updated by our friends that have done a great work, but let’s go to your problem.

But don’t worry because it ins’t needed anymore nowadays. Flawioo I tried the updates. Right now I have both lines of code enabled and my Z Axis end stop is unplugged. I am still having a problem that my ender 3 will no longer descend. If I increase the X-axis it will go up, but it will not go down. Ok, try this simple firmware pre compiled. It doesn’t have BLTouch or Runnout filament sensor enabled but you can test if the problem is the firmware or some kind of connection.

I found another recommendation that I am trying. It seems to have addressed the known issues, but I still need to validate all the settings are correct and I can correctly print.

Hi, try to check the line below, you have to comment adding double slash in front of the parameters and so than it will allow you to go below 0 negative values.

Usually black and white colors are probe wires and the remaining are servo wires. Could you get some new pictures from rear side of BLTouch, there are some indication about what means the wires and colors.

Hi to all, jus in case, I have the same problem with the board 4. But only with the X axis. After a Night of testing I found that if keep the SD card inserted in the printer the error solves, so this X endstop no detection only happen when no sd card is in the printer.

Someone knows if this fan is drived by any PIN definition? Yes, excuse me, it doesn’t work with the smartphone. Here are the photos you asked me, you will see it is not the same as yours. Skip to content.

New issue. Jump to bottom. Ender 3 v1 with 4. Copy link. Board Creality v4. We are unable to convert the task to an issue at this time. Please try again. The issue was successfully created but we are unable to update the comment at this time. This would be greate! Thank you! Can you confirm the main chip number stm32f something..

Well your definitely installing firmware without issues. Same MPU as expected. Before you start I would look under the board as pins may be labeled on the underside.



Your browser does not seem to support JavaScript. As a result, your viewing experience will be diminished, and you may not be able to execute some actions. Please download a browser that supports JavaScript, or enable it if it’s disabled i. Register Login. G admin I got it straightened out when I added the cr touch and had to take things apart. With the touch added the prints look good but take times longer. Thought maybe Somehow the SD card got corrupted and the firmware on the main board and on the screen also got corrupted.

I tried to update the firmware with CURA and it didn’t work. I also upgraded the screens firmware through the microSD card slot on the screen with the. The screen updated no problem but I still had the boot screen and nothing else until l upgraded the firmware on the mainboard through Creality’s Slicer.

I hope this helps. M Fixed. I had to start a print, then press the z offset to get to zero. Then with bed already lowered it then homed without hitting. I could then start the leveling and z offset process over from scratch.

T I think the filament is broken after the filament sensor. Try to unload the filament. Maybe you have to detach the filament tube. C telephasic Yes. Very frustrating. I swapped the e-plug and the z-plug around on the board to check if was a wire or motor fault, move the z axis from the control panel and the e-motor runs correctly in both directions. So I’m guessing its something with the board.

I’ll send an email to creality and see if they can help, but I bought the board thru Banggood, soo S NUCInnovations It sounds like you have a good mechanical aptitude, so I probably can’t tell you much that you haven’t already worked out for yourself.

My manual leveling process starts by raising the print head, and then inspecting the nozzle with a mirror I actually use a ladies compact mirror, as this is small and gives a magnified image. I make sure that the nozzle’s flat orifice is completely free of plastic. I then heat the bed to 60’C and leave it for another 5 minutes. The nozzle could be heated to a temperature below the material melting point, but I’ve found this unnecessary. I use a very old s ‘3 thou’ feeler-gauge I used to tune cars too!

Also, adjustment of the 4 spring loaded adjusters is very sensitive; it would probably be easier if they had a finer thread, and if there was only 3 not 4 equidistant adjusters. I no longer bother to re-check the bed-to-nozzle gap before use.

If its printing OK, I just use it. P Before you can connect with the printer using USB, you need to install the drivers if you’re on a Windows computer or a Mac. The drivers are on the SD card. See the “2. There is also a guide there. P I receive my printer a week ago and after watch some videos about calibration, I started there. After analysing the mecanism, I tryed going down with the plate manualy and slowly, and found that the switch was not detecting the small metal bar that activates it.

Then with a small allen key supplied, I tested the switch and it was working when I passed in between the two sides. Because the metal bar has 2 screws, I tried to adjust the position and at a certain angle it worked. Then after that I have printed a test model and a small bust with success.

On the 3rd print I got the same problem, which I tried to solve but this time without success. Because I am new to the printer, I don’t know if there is something to adjust the z axis so that it is a little highter so that the metal plate can go a little furder down and trigger the switch.

Please can you help me? Regards Paul Neves. A Compared with the FDM counterparts, the Creality Ender-7 3d printer enjoys a high printing speed of mm per second—when many of the homogeneous products carry the printing speed of mm or mm per second, it remarkably outperforms them, setting up another new benchmark for the printing industry. Log in to post. S spartacus I had the same problems. What i did was i remover the printer in cura And after cura restart i installed the printer again That worked for me Ender 5 plus.

No one has replied. M TT2 Hello TT2, do you have any recommendations on where I can learn about printing orientation in relation to using minimal supports?

M Same thing is happening to me. Please someone from Creality respond. Below is the official after-sales channel portal, if you have any after-sales issues, please contact us on this platform. Thank you for your support. A Dear tommytamsen anonymus30 If you have any question about this product, please feel free to contact our after sales support, they will give you the best solution. Thank you.

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